BARCELONA: 7 vecí, ktoré nám v nej učarovali

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Gaudího pamiatky nás popravde príliš nebrali, s dieťaťom bolo nemožné hýriť v noci, či vymetať umelecké galérie. Z davov turistov a ruchu nám vstávali vlasy dupkom. No aj tak sme si Barcelonu užili — po svojom. Prečítaj si naše tipy na miesta, ktoré sa s drobcom oplatí navštíviť. Neboj, ich súčasťou je aj dobrá káva či jedlo. A ako bonus presné adresy detských ihrísk!

Našu tohtoročnú návštevu katalánskej metropoly poznačila skutočnosť, že sme sa sem vybrali akurát cez Veľkú noc, takže Barcelona, hlavne jej široké bulváry v centre neraz pripomínali živú rieku (inými slovami, zažili sme tu poriadnú tlačenicu a intenzívne sa v nás prebúdzal inštinkt — uteč a skry sa :-). Rovnako sme sem prišli v období, keď malou nomádkou začali lomcovať záchvevy „prvej puberty” (rozumej, prestala byť batôžtekom, ktorý poľahky premiestnite z bodu A či bodu B a väčšinu času ju vyvážate v kočíku alebo nosíte v nosiči, ale stala sa z nej nezávislá jednotka s rýchlymi nožičkami a ešte rýchlejším úsudkom, nezávislým na našich rozhodnutiach. A s poriadne tvrdou palicou. Vám poviem, že tá keď si niečo zaumieni, dovi, dopo. Máme doma typickú baranku). 

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A v neposlednom rade náš týždňový pobyt v Barcelone ovplyvnila aj skutočnosť, že sme pôvodne plánovali útek do exotiky a horkokrvné Španielsko sme uprednostnili na poslednú chvíľu. Takže sme boli mentálne naladení na úplne iný typ dovolenky, než na zbesilú poznávačku rušného európskeho veľkomesta v štýle uvidieť a postíhať toho čo najviac. 

Uvedomili sme si to až na tvári miesta, keď sme úplne prirodzene a podvedome radšej vyhľadávali pláže, pokojnejšie štvrte, kde by sme mohli zakempovať a len tak hybernovať – áno, toto posledné bol pokus o vtip :D) 

Nasledujúci článok (po trošku rozvláčnejšom úvode) je takým trochu „iným” pohľadom na to, čo v Barcelone vidieť a zažiť.

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1. LAS RAMBLAS RÁNO

Na pomery nás, rodičov, ktorých malý neúnavný „kraken” postaví od 6-7 hodiny rannej do pozoru, sa Barcelona prebúdza pomerne neskoro. Neskoršie tu svitá, o pol 8 sa ešte iba lenivo rozvidnieva. Navyše tunajší ľudia majú aj posunutý režim. Na rozdiel od Talianska či Portugalska, kde sme mali pocit, že kým sa vymotáme z hotelovej izby či z prenajatého bytu, tak je už polovica dopoludnia fuč, v Barcelone sa sotva otvárajú podniky v čase, keď už o dušu brázdime ulice (10:00). Ráno sme sa tak vybrali na prechádzku po najznámejšej a najdlhšej barcelonskej promenáde Las Ramblas až k prístavu Port Vell, pokochali sa stĺpom Krištofa Kolumbusa (mimochodom, dá sa vyviezť až hore na vyhliadku). Las Ramblas je o takomto čase oveľa prázdnejšia než popoludní, nemáte pocit, že vás davy ľudí rozmliaždia. Nemusíte si kŕčovito strážiť kabelku či ruksak, ani tŕpnuť, či vaše dieťa nezhltne bzučiaci, kontinuálne prúdiaci dav. Mnohé stánky sú síce o tomto čase ešte zavreté a nejeden umelec ešte zrejme doma sladko odfukuje, bulvár lemovaný alejou prenádherných platanov, historickými budovami s reštauráciami, zmrzlinárňami, divadlami či tapas barmi, má však stále svoje čaro. Ba možno ešte väčšie. Takže ak si chcete „Ramblu” vychutnať bez stresu a prejsť z jedného jej konca na druhý (čo vám zaberie nejaký ten čas, lebo je fááákt dlhá a pozostáva z 5 častí (jednotlivých ramblí), podľa nás sa oplatí si „privstať”. 🙂

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2. TRHOVISKO LA BOQUERIA

Našim najobľúbenejším miestom na Las Ramblas bolo trhovisko La Boqueria, celým menom Mercant de Sant Josep de la Boqueria. 

Prvá zmienka o tomto trhu pochádza údajne už z 13. storočia. Samozrejme, že za tie stovky rokov sa trh menil, no niekde som sa dočítala, že železná strecha, ktorá zastrešuje celý trh (čiže keď vám zaprší, viete, kam sa schovať a „zabiť” čas :-), má vyše 100 rokov. 

La Boqueria patrí medzi najznámejšie a najpopulárnejšie barcelonské trhy a niet sa čo čudovať. Gastro-šialenci, toto je mekka jedla, svet čerstvých rýb a rôznych morských potvor, rozmanitých regionálnych vín, mäsa visiaceho za nozičky, ovocia a zeleniny hádam každého druhu (od lesných jahôd až po artičoky) a pestrofarebných ovocných štiav (za podľa nás celkom smiešne peniaze, za trojdecový pohár čerstvo vytlačenej ovocnej šťavy zaplatíte 1,50 – 2 eurá). Nájdete tu aj rôzne sladkosti, oriešky, sendviče, tapas či obrovské plnené palacinky. Dokonca sme hlboko v jeho útrobách objavili stánok, kde predávali rôzne chrobáky v sáčkoch (mala som nutkanie spýtať sa predavača, či je to pre ľudí alebo pre zvieratá, lebo vyzerali ako také exotické čipsy…:D ale nakoniec som nenazbierala odvahu 🙂

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Podľa našich skúseností sa oplatí na trh zamieriť doobeda (alebo rovno ráno), lebo popoludní alebo podvečer sa väčšina stánkov (napríklad s čerstvými rybami) zatvorí. Popoludní je trhovisko viac prepchaté turistami a v tej tlačenici aj zlodejmi. Malej nomádke sme tu takmer každý deň zháňali „výbavičku” na celodenné maškrtenie (lesné jahody, maliny či čerstvo vylisované ovocné šťavy – pre ňu vrchol blaha). A keďže sme bývali v hoteli Chic&Basic Ramblas kúsok od trhoviska, večer sme tu nakúpili olivy, syry, šunku, zeleninu a pečivo a na našej teraske sme si pri západe slnka dopriali hotové gastro-orgie. 

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3. PLÁŽ BARCELONETTA

Ak sa vás zmocní neochvejný pocit, že sa potrebujete vymaniť z divokého pulzu veľkomesta a dopriať si aspoň na chvíľu „lážo-plážo”, nemusíte chodiť ďaleko. Asi 10 minút chôdze do najznámejšej barcelonskej ulice Las Ramblas a prístavu Port Vell sa rozkladá mestská pláž Barceloneta (v preklade malá Barcelona). Kedysi to bola rybárska osada, neskôr robotnícka štvrt s typickými dvoj či troj poschodovými domčekmi s oknami do ulice. Momentálne je známa vychválenými rybími a inými reštikami, tapas barmi, kaviarňami či galériami. Turisti aj domáci sem chodia spomaliť, ponoriť bosé nohy do piesku a užívať si šumenie mora a plážové nič nerobenie. No aj na Barcelonete vie byť poriadne rušno (ak je pekné počasie), takže nečakajte žiadnu oázu samoty. Plážovú promenádu lemujú beach bary, kde si môžete objednať sangríu, zatiaľ čo sa váš drobec hrá v piesku (a úplne beztrestne si ju môžete vychutnať aj na pravé poludnie :-). 

Naša malá nomádka bola celá šťastná, keď sme jej vyzuli topánky, posadili ju na zloženú plienku do piesku, hrala sa s plastovým pohárom z kaviarne a lyžičkou dobrú polhodinu!

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Na chodníkoch akísi chlapíci hrajú na saxofóne, ďalší zasa stavajú rôzne umelecké diela z piesku alebo predávajú plážové šatky.

Inak keď sme pri tých predavačoch – ak sa vyberiete na Barcelonetu pešo zo smeru Las Ramblas, po obvode prístavu Port Vell, zažijete ľudský úľ v podobe černošských predavačov, ktorí si na širokých chodníkoch už zrána rozložia svoj tovar a neúnavne ponúkajú šatky, fejkové kabelky či okuliare, sošky a rôzne iné cetky. Poobede sa chodník pred prístavom a priľahlý „parčík” tak zaplní, že musíte div že nie dávať lakťovky, aby ste sa prepchali. 

Po samotnej plážovej promenáde na Barcelonete sa inak dá dobre kočíkovať, až na absenciu tieňa, má minimálne nejaký ten kilometrík. Takže keď sa váš duracellko vyšťaví hrou v piesku, môžete ho rovno naložiť do kočíka a prekočíkovať sa s ním – tak ako my – až k barcelonskej odnoži slávneho podniku La Pacha z Ibizy a prístavu Port Olímpic. Len sa pripravte na to, že na promenáde vám okrem kočíkov a chodcov budú robiť spoločnosť aj korčuliari či cyklisti, ale dá sa to. (Mimochodom, nedajte sa zmiasť ako my – videli sme názvy miest typu Port Olímpic, Vila Olímpica a podobne, tak sme si mysleli, že neďaleko sa nachádza olympijský štadión…až keď sme sa motali po tejto štvrti dobrú polhodinu a trochu googlovali, pochopili sme, že olympijský areál je kdesi celkom inde – hore na kopci Montjuic 🙂

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4. PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA

Neďaleko Barcelonety, na severovýchodnom okraji starého mesta, sa rozkladajú „zelené pľúca Barcelony” — Parc de la Ciutadella. Obrovský, krásny park s jazerom (na ktorom sa dá člnkovať), alejami stromov či rôznymi pamätníkmi, múzeami má vraj až 30 hektárov, pôvodne na jeho mieste stála mestská pevnosť Ciutadella, ktorú zbúrali podobne ako Bastillu v Paríži. Preto aj ten názov, Parc de la Ciutadella. V parku sa nachádza množstvo zaujímavostí, Gaudího jaskyňa, vodopády, pomarančovníkové háje či fontána Cascada v severovýchodnom kúte parku, ba dokonca budova katalánskeho parlamentu a ZOO. A nájdete tam aj stánky s občerstvením (kaviarne). 

V samotnej ZOO sme neboli, popravde odradilo nás astronomické vstupné 22 eur za 1 dospelú osobu, tá suma ma fakt posadila. Neskôr som sa dočítala, že ZOO vybudovali v 40. rokoch 20. storočia a je zaujímavá tým, že zvieratá od návštevníkov neoddeľujú mreže klietok, ale vodné priekopy. Aké máte skúsenosti vy? Navštívili ste barcelonskú ZOO? Môžeme ľutovať, a fakt sa oplatilo ísť? 

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5. HIPSTERSKÁ ŠTVRŤ EL BORN

Hľadali sme a našli! Štvrť, ktorá by dýchala umením. Štvrť posiatu dizajnovými obchodníkmi, butikmi a galériami. Štvrť s maličkými námestiami, kde akoby zastavil čas a držal sa tam ten pravý genius loci miesta. Tapas bary, uzučké historické uličky, graffiti a jednorožce na balkóne. Picassovo múzeum a nenápadné, totálne minimal kaviarne so strašne dobrou kávou. Tá štvrť sa volá El Born. Niekto by ju možno označil slovom „hipsterská”. Nachádza sa neďaleko parku Parc de la Ciutadella a obsadila prvé miesto v našom rebríčku najčarovnejších zákutí/štvrtí Barcelony. Spolu so susednou štvrťou La Ribera, ktorá sa opäť blíži k Barcelonete a Las Ramblas. Pompézne paláce a rozhľahlé barcelonské námestia, kde na každom rohu vo vzduchu rozvoniavala tráva, nás popravde až tak nebrali. No v štvrti El Born sme mali chuť strácať sa a objavovať všemožné jej zákutia. Hlavne bola super v tom, že tu nebolo toľko turistov ani taký ruch. 

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6. HRADNÝ VRCH MONTJUIC

Popravde, samotný Castell de Montjuic, ktorý sa rozkladá na kopci nad prístavom a historickým centrom, nie je práve žiadne terno. Bývalú pevnosť a väznicu politických väzňov definujú hrubočizné múry a príliš tam nie je čo okukávať. V prípade tejto barcelonskej „Bastily” totálne platí: Cesta je cieľom. Deckám sa totiž viac bude páčiť samotná cesta tam (lanovkou, s výhľadom na celé mesto) či prechádzka po parku, keď budete z hradu peši smerovať k olympijskému štadiónu. 

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Ako sa tam dostať: My sme sa odviezli metrom zo stanice Dressen (pri Las Ramblas) dve zastávky na stanicu Av. Paralel (2.20€/dospelá osoba) a odtiaľ sme išli podzemnou lanovkou (v cene) hore na kopec Montjuic. Montjuic v preklade znamená „židovský vrch”, pretože kedysi tu bol židovský cintorín. Okrem hradu sa tu nachádza aj olympijský areál. K hradu sa môžete vyviezť spomínanou lanovkou, jedna cesta stojí 8,50€/na osobu. Síce je to celkom pálka, ale popravde, nechcelo sa nám šliapať do kopca v horúčave, pretože je to pomerne dlhá trasa. Naspäť sme však išli peši a orientovali sme sa podľa mapky, ktorú sme si kúpili za 0.80€ v informačnom kiosku oproti vchodu do lanovky. V parku pod hradom Castell de Montjuic sa môže drobec nielen vybehať, ale je tam aj detské ihrisko (oplotené) a vedľa neho taký barík, kde si môžete dať pivko či kávu. 

7. MIESTA S DOBROU KÁVOU

Keď sme pri tej káve — v Barcelone sme si uvedomili, že už si nerobíme kávové pauzy tam, kde nás zaujme ponuka, dizajnové prostredie či brutálny výhľad. Väčšinou kávujeme tam, kde je po ruke nejaké detské ihrisko – alebo aspoň voľačo, čo sa na detské ihrisko aspoň zdiaľky podobá, aby sme si tú kávu pokiaľ možno vychutnali po sediačky v relatívnom kľude a nie ju kopali do seba ako frťana na stojaka, jednou nohou naháňajúc neposedné dieťa. 🙂

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Ale občas motyka vystrelí a nám sa podarí objaviť oázy pravých kávičkárov. A nielen objaviť, ale si v nich aj v kľude vypiť kávu!!! :-)))))

Nech sa páči, tu sú niektoré z tých, ktoré sa nachádzajú v Barcelone, a ktoré sme mali možnosť navštíviť a vyskúšať. 

>>> Diabolsky dobré miesto a ešte lepšia káva

Satan’s Coffee Corner. Na toto miesto sme dostali odporúčanie od jedného známeho-baristu z Martina. Na nete sme zistili, že kaviareň má pobočky v dvoch štvrtiach – v stredovekej gotickej štvrti ( centrum Barcelony) a v modernej štvrti Eixample. My sme úplnou náhodou zablúdili do tej v historickom centre po tom, čo sme sa túlali pôvabnými stredovekými uličkami židovskej štvrte El Call, malá nomádka práve spala. Kaviareň je totálne jednoduchý priestor, podlaha a steny z lešteného betónu, nič viac nič menej. Nápis „Nemáme wifi, nerobíme vanilla coffee ani bezkofeínové varianty kávy a neznášame Trip Advisor” ma dostal. No žiadna póza, ale čistá pravda. 

Personál bol veľmi milý a hoci je zákaz vynášať šálky, lebo nemajú štandardné sedenie na terase (vraj hrozí pokuta od policajtov) iba na múriku, keď sa nomádka začala v kočíku mrviť, dovolil nám zobrať šálky von. Palec hore za empatiu. 

Ak chcete zažiť kávový punk (a lahodnú kávu pre skutočných kávičkárov, namierte pri potulkách svoje kroky práve do Satan’s Coffee Corner). Originalita tohto miesta na vás dýchne už na ich oficiálnej webke, kde nájdete aj presné lokácie: satanscoffee.com

>>> Nomádi idú do nomádskej kaviarne

Ako by to predsa bolo, keby rodinka nomádov a vášniví kávopiči v Barcelone nenavštívili nomádsku kaviareň? A tak sme do našej navigačky/smartfónu nahodili adresu a nechali sa viesť. Dobre sme urobili. Nomad Coffee sa môže popýšiť výbornou kávou (sami ju aj pražia), totálne minimalistickým zariadením (nemajú žiadne stoly, sedíte pri pulte rovno pred baristami, čiže sa dívate na to, ako vám kávu pripravujú) a minimalistickou ponukou (nič iné ako kávu v ponuke nemajú a na nejaké lattéčko so sójovým mliekom a karamelom a podobné „uchylačiny” zabudnite :-))))

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Kde sa nachádzajú a akú kávu vám pripravia? Čeknite ich web: nomadcoffee.es

>>> Ľahký, zdravý obed pre všetkých a kafe

Sieť podnikov Alsur Café nás príjemne prekvapila celkom chutným jedlom aj prostredím. Navštívili sme jej Backdoor Bar pri Parc de la Ciutadella (štvrť Born), mali aj detské menu. Na quinoa šaláte som si fakt pochutila, káva tiež ušla. Ďalšie pobočky majú roztrúsené po celom meste, čeknite ich na alsurcafe.com

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8. BONUS – KDE NÁJDETE DETSKÉ IHRISKÁ

Poctivo sme hľadali a ešte poctivejšie si zapisovali. Vieme, ako veľmi sa vám to môže zísť, takže, nech sa páči. Zoznam miest, kde nájdete vcelku obstojné detské ihriská v barcelonskom centre a okolí, áno aj s adresami. 🙂 Niektoré sú skutočne skromné, ale tak lepšie než nič, však? 🙂

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Pri LAS RAMBLAS (spodná časť ulice): na námestí Plaza Joaquim Xirau je ihrisko, ktoré síce nie je síce žiadna výhra, ale aspoň, že je. Bezprostredne pri ňom sa totiž nachádza Irish Pub – majú sedenie aj na terase, takže ak sa potrebujete najesť (alebo nakŕmiť malého duracellka – našej malej napríklad urobili zemiakovú kašu s polovičnou porciou omelety), prípadne si len na chvíľu vydýchnuť, je to fajn riešenie na rušnej promenáde prepchatej davmi. V reštaurácii slušne varia, majú aj čerstvo vytlačenú pomarančovú šťavu pre drobcov a ihrisko oproti podniku je oplotené, čiže sa nedá z neho poľahky zdrhnúť. 🙂 Na toaletách v Irish Pube majú aj prebaľovací pult, avšak nečakajte extrémne hygienické prostredie a s wc papierom to tiež bolo počas našej návštevy tak poskromnejšie. 

EL CALL, židovská štvrť a historické centrum: uzučké uličky, rozličné starožitníctva a košér podniky či obchodíky s koženými výrobkami majú svoje nepopierateľné čaro a židovská štvrt El Call patrí podľa nás medzi najšarmantnejšie kúty Barcelony, ktoré rozhodne treba prebádať. Aby pri tom váš drobec neprišiel skrátka, môžete ho ako „odmenu za výdrž” vyvenčiť na detskom ihrisku pri rímskych vykopávkach na Placa De La Villa De Madrid. V historickom centre máte na výber aj ihrisko na námestí Placa De George Orwell. 

EL BORN, štvrť neďaleko Parc de la Ciutadella: detské ihrisko sme objavili na ulici Carrer d Allada Vermell. 

Lesseps: stanica metra, kde pravdepodobne vystúpite, ak sa chcete dostať do Gaudího Parc Guell. Aj tu objavíte detské ihrisko. 

Gaudího Parc Guell: detské ihrisko sa nachádza v nespoplatnenej časti parku (takmer pri východe). 

BARCELONETA: detské ihrisko v bývalej rybársko-robotníckej štvrti pri pláži sme objavili na Carrer del Baluard.

224 thoughts on “BARCELONA: 7 vecí, ktoré nám v nej učarovali

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