GIRONA – neprávom prehliadaná sestra Barcelony

girona-nepravom-prehliadana-sestra-barcelony

Lacné letenky, fascinujúca história, fantastická káva a ešte k tomu aj baby friendly miesto so zeleňou. Girona je perfektnou voľbou na predĺžený víkend alebo na jednodňovú poznávačku v rámci letnej dovolenky na španielskom pobreží Costa Brava.

Natrafili ste na akciové letenky do Girony, resp. s príletom na letisko Girona – Costa Brava (a tie bývajú pomerne často, keďže je „baštou” nízkonákladovky Ryanair)? Určite neváhajte a bookujte. Metropola severného Katalánska je totiž nielen bránou pre letné plážoidné leňošenie na neďalekom pobreží Costa Brava a tranzitným miestom do Barcelony. Sama o sebe si zaslúži vašu pozornosť ako destinácia na predĺžený víkend (alebo aspoň jednodňový výletík). A predovšetkým vtedy ak – rovnako ako my – milujete históriu, dobrú kávu či jedlo a chcete si na chvíľku užiť „dolce vita” – áno aj s neposedným dieťaťom.

Praktické infošky o tom, ako sa sem dostať (zo Slovenska alebo z Barcelony), nájdete na konci tohto článku >>>

Gironu sme navštívili po piatich dňoch strávených v Barcelone. Pobudli sme v nej dva dni a bolo to WOW. Svojim rozkošným stredovekým centrom nadupaným históriou, uzučkými uličkami, meandrom rieky Onyar obkoleseným farebnými zubatými domčekmi, chutnými créperiami a živými námestíčkami, nás totálne dostala. Možno je to aj tým, že príliš neholdujeme okázalým a obrovským mestám, ktoré nás div že nepohltia. A možno je to tým, že milujeme Taliansko a Girona má tak trochu taliansky šmrnc. A možno je to jednoducho len jej atmosférou a genius loci, no učarovala nám fakt od prvého okamihu. Ba dokonca viac, než jej pompéznejšia sestra Barcelona. Ľutujeme jediné – že sme v nej nestrávili viac času.

Girona je totiž presne ten typ mesta, kde sa po dobrej večeri posadíte na lavičku so zmrzkou v ruke a pozorujete okolitý cvrkot na námestí, zatiaľ čo váš duracellko odvážne mapuje neďaleké kvetinové záhony a asi tri minúty si užívate príjemnú prítomnú chvíľu a sladké bytie – respektívne do chvíle, kým drobec nezačne kvety rozoberať na súčiastky. :-)))

Centrum Girony je neveľké a pomerne kompaktné, takže ak sa nechcete pomaly lenivo túlať, dokážete ho prejsť celé za pár hodín. Hlavnou tepnou pri nábreží je – rovnako ako v Barcelone – široká, rušná pešia ulica La Rambla, lemovaná reštauráciami a cez víkend či sviatky aj stánkami s jedlom. Z nej vybieha prakticky na všetky strany labyrint uličiek.

Všimnite si most cez rieku – áno, presne ten kovový, ktorý vám nevdojak pripomenie Eiffelovku – má rovnakého autora, navrhol ho Gustav Eiffel. Ak chcete zájsť hlbšie do histórie, v historickom centre objavíte starobylé arabské kúpele z 12. storočia, v nedeľu si ich môžete pozrieť zdarma, len radšej príďte ešte doobeda. My sme mali smolu, že sme sem zamierili po obedňajšom spánku malej nomádky a boli zatvorené.

No zato sme využili možnosť, že v nedeľu bývajú zadarmo aj múzeá či vstupy do kostolov a vybrali sme sa na prehliadku tamojšieho židovského múzea. V každom meste podvedome hľadáme židovské štvrte, lebo milujeme atmosféru ich tesných stredovekých uličiek, košér podnikov, starožitníctiev plných pokladov z pradávnych čias či tajuplných synagóg. V Španielsku sa nazývajú „El Call”.

Židovské múzeum v Girone úžasne mapuje celú históriu židovskej komunity v tomto meste, na nádvorí s múrmi obrastenými brečtanom nájdete na dlažbe židovskú hviezdu a fascinujúci artefakt, ktorý sa podobá na akési astrologické hodiny (nepodarilo sa mi zistiť, čo to vlastne je).

Gotická katedrála Catedral de Santa Maria de Girona, alebo jednoducho Catedral de Girona, ktorú stavali neuveriteľných sedemsto rokov, má takú atmošku, že som sa po jej návšteve – priznávam bez mučenia – rozplakala. Je tam skrátka „niečo”, čo ma na chvíľu totálne vyosilo z orbitu. Poznáte to tiež? Taký ten pocit „medzi nebom” a zemou, príznačný pre určité miesta? Nuž, táto katedrála je pre mňa jedným z nich.

Chcete mať nad tým všetkým nadhľad? Labyrint stredovekých gironských uličiek obkolesujú stredoveké hradby Forca Vella úctyhodného veku, postavili ich údajne rímski vojaci v 1. storočí pred našim letopočtom. Super je, že sa po nich môžete aj poprechádzať.

Na východnom okraji hradieb dokonca nájdete detské ihrisko s pár hojdačkami, šmýkačkami, domčekom, preliezkami – a kamienkami. Áno, vieme, táto informácia je pre vás a vášho drobca po dni strávenom motkaním sa po historických uličkách ako soľ, takže si pekne uložte adresu Pujada de les Pedreres a potom si ju hoďte do navigačky, presne tam ihrisko nájdete 🙂

Mimochodom, návšteva Girony praje aj kočíku. Nemusíte sa kvôli nemu obmedzovať len na korzovanie hore-dole po jednej ulici. Hoci sa v historickom jadre stretnete aj so schodmi, takmer vždy sa to dá obísť aj s kočíkom.

Girona je stará vyše dvetisíc rokov a starobylé múry jej uzučkých uličiek by vedeli veruže rozprávať všelijaké príbehy. Nielen ten o spomínanej početnej židovskej komunite, ktorá tu žila v ranom stredoveku a neskôr sa jej obyvatelia stali obeťami krutého prenasledovania…ale aj ten o zrode jednej z najlepších kuchýň nielen v Katalánsku, ale v celom Španielsku.

Raz darmo, v Girone nájdete viacero jedno až troj michelinských reštaurácií. A približne 70 kilometrov od mesta by ste pred časom našli aj El Bulli, kontroverznú reštauráciu považovanú v čase svojej najväčšej slávy za najlepšiu na svete, ktorej „boss” Ferran Adriá stojí za zrodom experimentálnej molekulárnej gastronómie.

(Pozn. pre nezasvätencov: Molekulárna gastronómia je tým sci-fi gastronomickým trendom, kde kuchári pomocou chemických reakcií napríklad dokážu premeniť jablkovú štrúdľu na svietiacu želé kocku a mnohé ďalšie šialenosti.)

El Bulli ponúkala iba degustačné menu a fungovala na rezervačky, pričom dostávala tak milión žiadostí o rezerváciu stola ročne (nie, to nie je preklep). V realite sa potom k stolu v tejto reštike posadilo iba osemtisíc hostí. Jednoducho legenda, na ktorú sa zrejme ešte bude dlho spomínať…

Keď sme pri tých pôžitkoch…my sme síce s našou energickou malou nomádkou žiadneho „michelina” v Girone nevyskúšali, no radi sa s vami podelíme o niekoľko tipov na podniky, kde si môžete vychutnať skutočne dobrú kávu, tapas a netradičné panázijské chuťovky, pričom ich návštevou nadmerne neutýrate svoj rodinný rozpočet.

Za skutočne dobrou kávou zamierte do kaviarne La Fábrica, situovanej v tichej uličke Carrer De La Llebre. Jej majiteľom je cyklista Christian Meier, ktorý absolvoval aj Giro d’Italia a podnik je legendou nielen medzi kávičkármi, ale aj cyklo nadšencami. Keď sme La Fábrica objavili v isté nedeľné predpoludnie, kaviareň bola natrieskaná cyklistami. Plnka bola nielen v interiéri so stenami obvešanými bicyklami, helmami a inými cyklo dekoráciami, ale aj na maličkej terase. Super je však to, že hneď pri kaviarni sa nachádza široké kamenné schodisko, ktoré je akoby predĺžením terasy, takže vôbec nevadí, ak vychytáte všetky stoly obsadené.

Espresso spolu s croissantom netradične plneným banánmi a čokoládou sme si vychutnali na vankúšoch na schodisku, čo ešte viac podčiarkovalo príjemnú atmosféru. Páčilo sa nám tu do tej miery, že sme sa sem vrátili na neskorší brunch v podobe avokádových obložených chlebov a šalátu z quinoa a zeleniny. V ponuke majú aj rôzne iné šaláty, plnené bagle, panini, sendviče, koláče a dezerty.

Pozor, La Fábrica býva otvorená len do 15:00. Ak však náhodou prepásnete jej otváracie hodiny a chcete si vychutnať dobrú kávu aj neskôr, zamierte do minimalistického podniku Espresso Mafia, ktorý je otvorený dlhšie (do 19:00 až 20:00 cez týždeň a do 16:00 v nedeľu) a je to akoby súrodenec La Fábrica (majú rovnakú kávu). Kaviareň nájdete rovno v centre na ulici Carrer de la Cort Reial.

Doslova kulinárske hody a za prijateľné ceny sme si dopriali v podniku Nibble (s podtitulom slow fast food) na Placa Indepéndencia (na opačnom brehu rieky). Dávame vám ho špeciálne do pozornosti, lebo jeho návšteva je veľké MŇAM.

Privítala nás moderná gastronómia v podobe zdravých, netradične pripravených aj servírovaných jedál. V ponuke majú šaláty, tuniakové tataráky, hummus, cestoviny, burgre, rozličné Áziou šmrncnuté chuťovečky, rybie špecialitky (dokonca britské fish&chips), čerstvo vylisovanú pomarančovú šťavu („džúsik” je v reštike pre malú nomádku „must”!) a iné rozličné zdravé šťavy a nápoje. Kombinácia ingrediencií a ich vizuál (áno, šmírovali sme po susedných stoloch) vyzerali tak lákavo, že sme mali fakt problém si vybrať.

Naša skúsenosť? Žemľa v orientálnom burgri je šokujúco čierna, tuniakové tataki sa zasa rozplýva na jazyku a nevieme sa ho dojesť, potom nasleduje verzia havajskej špeciality „poke”…ďalej ani nejdem pokračovať, lebo si oslintám klávesnicu. 🙂

Len bacha, ak sa sem chystáte na večeru, príďte radšej skôr. Varia od 19:30 (my sme prišli v tomto čase) a neskôr tu býva taký nátresk, že reálne hrozí, že si nesadnete. Mimochodom, robia aj take away, keby náhodou…

Ďalšiu večeru sme strávili v podniku Tony’s na ulici Pujada del pont de Pedra. Paellu nám síce neurobili (hoci ju mali v menu, no podľa slov čašníka ešte bolo „zavčasu” – prišli sme sem totiž skôr, než v čase, kedy Katalánci obyčajne večerievajú), ale zato sme si dali tapas s morskými potvorami a dobre sme urobili. Ich tapas sa svojou veľkosťou rozhodne nenechali zahanbiť a totálne sme po nich fučali (a to sme si posharovali len tri), takí sme boli prejedení. A dezert? Chvalapánubohu, že sme čašníkovi povedali, že nám stačí jeden. Čakali sme totiž mini katalánsky puding, z ktorého si každý dáme po jednom súste, no oni nám doniesli hotový kotol! Výborne sme si však na všetkom pochutili.

Najsladšie pokušenie sme objavili v zmrzlinárni La Lletera na Placa de San Feliux. Tamojšia pistáciová je bezkonkurenčná! Pre zaujímavosť, stredne veľký kornútok či pohárik stojí 3,30€.

Mimochodom, Girona nám pripadá ako mesto palaciniek – na každom rohu robia „crépes” alebo slané „galletes”. Nečudo, Francúzsko majú prakticky za rohom. Ak chcete ochutnať tie najvychýrenejšie, skočte do Créperie Bretonne na Carrer de la Cort Reial (neďaleko kaviarne Espresso Mafia). Pobaví vás vintage interiér aj široká ponuka.

Praktické info o príchodoch a odchodoch:

Ak sa chcete dostať z letiska v Girone do Barcelony, odporúčame vám vziať si spred letiska shuttle bus (cena 16€ jednosmerný a 25€ spiatočný/osoba, dieťa do 3 rokov neplatí, dĺžka cesty: cca 75 minút). Autobus premáva každých 15 minút alebo keď sa zaplní. Odvezie vás na autobusovú stanicu Estacio Nord v širšom centre Barcelony, odkiaľ si pohodlne vezmete metro a po pár zastávkach ste v tom najcentrovatejšom centre. Lístok si môžete kúpiť rovno v autobuse alebo v stánku oproti autobusom. Mimochodom, rozvrh autobusov je zladený s príletmi lietadiel Ryanairu, čiže by sa vám nemalo stať, že po prílete do Girony na dlho-predlho skysnete na letisku.

Ak sa potrebujete dostať z Barcelony (centra) do centra Girony, odporúčame vám uprednostniť vlak. Vlaky premávajú zo stanice Sants (Estacio Sants), neďaleko obrovského námestia Plaza Espanya. Do Girony sa môžete odviezť regionálnym vlakom (tým sme išli my, cesta trvala 1,5 hodiny a platili sme 8,50€/osoba za jednosmerný lístok, malá nomádka ako dieťa neplatila nič), avšak vlak zastavuje aj v tej najmini dedinke….:-) To nám však nevadilo, keďže malá nomádka si cestu vlakom užívala a nikam sme sa neponáhľali. Alebo si môžete priplatiť a za 11,50€/osoba/vlakový lístok byť v Girone rýchlejšie (za cca 38 minút) rýchlikom.

Mimochodom, ak sa na barcelonskú vlakovú stanicu Sants odveziete metrom, majte oči na stopkách. Metro je totiž priamo prepojené s vlakovou stanicou labyrintom chodieb a treba sledovať návesť, aby ste sa tam zbytočne nemotali. Bacha, na rozdiel od autobusu či lietadla (letiskový transfer) neuvidíte ikonku vlaku (ako označenej vlakovej stanice), ale namiesto toho je vlaková stanica označená ako „renfe”. Sledujte týchto pár písmenok a malo by vás to po niekoľkých zdĺhavých chodbách vypľuť až na vlakovej stanici. Pozor, odchody regionálnych vlakov nájdete na informačnej tabuli nad okienkami s číslami od 1 do 5, nie na tej veľkej tabuli, ktorá vám ako prvá udrie do očí po príchode do haly. V týchto okienkách sa dajú kúpiť aj lístky na regionálny spoj. Dá sa platiť aj kartou a rozumejú v pohode anglicky.

Vlaková stanica v Girone sa nachádza v širšom centre (v „modernej časti” na opačnom brehu rieky ako historické centrum), avšak do historického centra to dáte v kľude aj peši, trvá to asi 20 minút chôdze, dokonca i menej.
Presný harmonogram odchodov vlakov z Barcelony do Girony a aj ďalšie spoje nájdete na stránke www.renfe.com, dokonca si tam môžete online kúpiť lístky na vlak (nie však regionálne, tie sa nedajú kúpiť v predstihu).

Ak sa budete chcieť dostať z centra Girony na letisko, môžete ísť buď taxíkom (my sme volili túto variantu, keďže sme odlietali v skorých ranných hodinách a autobusy na letisko premávajú až od 5:00 ráno). Za taxík sme platili 30€. Autobusy sú samozrejme lacnejšie.

Náš subjektívny postreh: V Girone sa dohovoríte bez problémov po anglicky. Všade. Ba dokonca sme mali skúsenosť, že domáci lepšie reagovali na angličtinu než na španielčinu. Považujú sa totiž za hrdých Kataláncov a vzhľadom na nie také dávne politické problémy a demonštrácie sme mali pocit, že Španielov a Španielsko majú celkom slušne v zuboch a potrebujú sa od nich dištancovať. Keď som vytiahla svoje znalosti španielčiny až odkiaľsi z päty a prehovorila na nich lámane touto rečou, odpovedali mi po anglicky alebo katalánsky (čo je pri všetkej úcte taká dokomolená zmes španielčino-francúzštino-portugalčino-ani neviem čoho 🙂 Keď som dokonca predavačke suvenírov oproti židovskému múzeu v Girone povedala, že som sa učila španielsky na strednej škole, sucho mi oznámila, že by som sa mala učiť katalánsky, pretože Kataláncov je úctyhodná populácia vyše osem miliónov. A keď som odvetila, že to skúsim, odrazu sa rozžiarila ako vianočný stromček. Nuž, národná hrdosť nepustí. Takže, Katalánsko nie je Andalúzia (kde nevedia často anglicky ani mäkké f) a ak viete anglicky, pokojne sa dohovárajte anglicky, no stress 🙂

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