TOSKÁNSKO s dieťaťom: TOTO pri jeho návšteve rozhodne nevynechajte

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Hoci radi objavujeme nové kúty sveta, Toskánsko je destinácia, kam voľky-nevoľky zablúdime každý rok. A toto sú naše rokmi overené vychytávky, ktoré by ste mali zažiť tiež. 

Už som to písala v jednom predchádzajúcom článku, ale Toskánsko sa stalo — bez preháňania — tradíciou našej nomádej rodinky. Či to plánujeme alebo nie, výber nášho každoročného jesenného nomádenia sa beztak zakaždým „zvrhne” tak, že skončíme v Taliansku, a s najväčšou pravdepodobnosťou v Toskánsku. 

Nie, že by nám to vadilo. Toskánsko je so svojimi historickými pamiatkami, atmosférou sladkého ničnerobenia, nenormálnou gastronómiou a so svojimi rozprávkovými kulisami, ktoré stáročia inšpirovali slávnych renesančných umelcov jednoducho miestom, do ktorého sa musíte nevyhnutne a šialene zamilovať. Tak ako my. 

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Husté lesy striedajú pahorky obsypané vinicami a olivovníkmi. Vo vzduchu sa vznáša sladká vôňa rozmarínu a levandule. Božský pokoj narúša iba spevavé štebotanie talianskych starčekov a stareniek, ktorí vysedávajú na priedomí rozkošných stredovekých mestečiek. A TEN západ slnka! Malebná krajina pretkaná kľukatou úzkou asfaltkou, roztrúsenými usadlosťami, farmami a starodávnymi etruskými hrobkami, sa kúpe v mori zlatistého svetla. Núti vás vytiahnuť fotoaparát a zachytávať ten prchavý, no nezabudnuteľný okamih znovu a znovu…

V typických miniatúrnych a poriadne starobylých toskánskych mestečkách, ktoré míňate po ceste, panuje napoludnie typická toskánska ospalosť a uzučké uličky podfarbené neopakovateľnou atmosférou starých čias sú zvláštne tiché a prázdne. Domáci sa totiž oddávajú fa niente dolce – sladkému ničnerobeniu – s rovnakou vášňou ako svojmu slávnemu vínu, lahodným syrom či svojej hlučnej rodine…Rodinné putá sú tu napriek dnešnej šialenej uponáhľanej a virtuálnej dobe stále posvätné. A v dobe globálnych sietí a mamutích korporácií sa tu farmy, kaviarničky, mäsiarstvá, obchody či vinárstva s hrdosťou dedia z generácie na generáciu. A je to tu cítiť.

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Do Toskánska sa chodí najmä za históriou, malebnými scenériami, dobrým vínom a jedlom. Táto kombinácia sa možno na prvý pohľad vylučuje s prítomnosťou malého dieťaťa. Predsalen, vláčiť celý deň dvojročné dieťa v rozpuku prvej puberty po krivolakých, stŕmych uličkách a potom ho „nútiť”, aby obsedelo, kým si vychutnáte toskánske špeciality, je trochu sci-fi predstava, však? Napriek tomu sa však sna o Toskánsku nemusíte vzdávať, je to otázka kompromisov. 

Podľa našich skúseností je však najlepšie objavovať s dieťaťom Toskánsko v období, keď je ešte úplne maličké (tak cca do roka, respektíve kým nechodí alebo kým ho plnohodnotne zasýti materské alebo umelé mliečko a nemusíte riešiť pre neho stravu). Alebo potom keď už je väčšie, rozumej školák a kus papiera s pastelkami alebo pútavá knižka ho vedia aspoň na chvíľu „ukotviť” na jednom mieste. 🙂

Ak však máte drobca, ktorý už nie je primalý ale ešte nie je ani priveľký, a napriek tomu vás to do Toskánska neskutočne ťahá, máme pre vás tip na baby friendly toskánsky rezort pri pláži neďaleko Pisy, kde bude vášmu drobcovi úplne super-truper a môžete pobyt v ňom skombinovať s poznávačkou toskánskych pokladov.
Prečítajte si o ňom >>> https://littlenomadlife.com/na-dovolenku-toskanska-vieme-kde-si-uzije-cela-rodina/

A čo vám teda odporúčame rozhodne počas potuliek po tomto rozprávkovom kraji nevynechať? Je toho strašne veľa, tak aspoň malý výber z toho NAJ: 

Tajne tipy na skutočne lahôdky toskánskej gastronómie

V Toskánsku vás čakajú hotové kulinárske orgie, je priam nemožné sa tu držať prísneho diétneho režimu. Alebo sem potom ani nechoďte, fakt. A ak idete, preventívne si vezmite so sebou o číslo väčšie kraťasy a voľnejšie šaty. Dobre vám radíme. Bože, ja som bola taká rada, že sme sem prišli aj počas tehotenstva. Aspoň som mohla beztrestne žrať a mala som na to dobrú výhovorku, že predsa jem za dvoch…:D 😀 😀 

Toskánsko je mekkou najmä pre všetkých milovníkov mäsa. Pripravujú ho tu na rôzne spôsoby: grilované, pečené, mleté či varené. A nielen hovädzinu či bravčovinu, ale aj králika, divinu na dokonca konské mäso (posledne menované ale nie je úplne moja šálka kávy). Toskánsko je dokonca povestné divinovými špecialitami, niektoré z najlepších reštaurácií, ktoré pripravujú divinu, nájdete v templárskom meste Massa Marítima. V ponuke tamojších reštaurácií bežne nájdete ravioli či tortelli plnené divinou, a práve k nim sa najviac hodí tradičné toskánske červené víno. 

Na jeseň je aj sezóna hľuzovky — hľuzovkové špeciality nájdete všade, budete o ne doslova zakopávať. Mne sa z nich popravde najprv kvôli zvláštnej typicky hľuzovkovej aróme dvíhal žalúdok, no na konci dovolenky som sa ich už nevedela dojesť. 

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Jeden z najväčších gurmánskych zážitkov sme suverénne zažili v úžasnej miniatúrnej trattorii A Casa Mia v mestečku San Casciano Val di Pesa. Predstavte si miestnosť tri krát tri metre, ani nie desať stolov natlačených na seba a po turistoch ani smradu. Každá stolička je iná, sami si strúhame parmezán a príbor si vyťahujeme zo zásuvky stola. Niečo také ako jedálny lístok? Zabudnite. Každý deň je na výber pár jedál podľa toho, čo sa majiteľovi a šéfkuchárovi Mauriziovi chce práve variť. A večer je tam permanentne nátresk. Ak si nerezervujete stôl dopredu, máte smolu. Ak máte čas a chuť, toto jednoducho musíte zažiť! 

Rodinné agrofarmy

Tušili ste, že existuje hľuzovkový med? Alebo anízový, gaštanový či šafránový? Ani my nie. No návšteva rodinnej farmy Alfaniovcov Greppi di Silli v San Casciano Val di Pesa, zasadenej do olivových hájov a vinohradov a ukrytá pred svetom vysoko v kopcoch s krásnymi výhľadmi, nás presvedčí o opaku. 

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Otec rodiny a majiteľ farmy, usmievavý Michéle, nám s nadšením a láskou rozprával o pestovaní hrozna, olív, chove včiel, výrobe olivového oleja, histórii svojej rodiny a láske k prírode a zasvätil nás do tajomstiev výroby toho najkvalitnejšieho olivového oleja a vína. Ochutnávali sme exotické druhy jeho domáceho medu v kombinácii s lahodnými syrmi pecorino, ktoré vyrába jeho sused na protiľahlom kopci a údajne sú najlepšie v celom Toskánsku. Na záver nás prekvapila sladká bodka – domáca smotanová zmrzlina vlastnoručnej výroby Michélovej ženy Ilárie poliata olivovým olejom. Domáci med, víno či olivový olej si tu dokonca môžete kúpiť domov ako suvenír. A je len na vás, či sa o tieto gastronomické skvosty budete chcieť podeliť s ostatnými. 🙂 Mimochodom, na tejto agro farme ponúkajú aj ubytovanie, tak ako v mnohých iných. 

Podobné agrofarmy (agroturismo) sú roztrúsené po celom Toskánsku a každá sa špecializuje na niečo iné. Niektoré ponúkajú aj kurzy varenia alebo hľadajú pomoc pri zbere olív či hrozna. Kto hľadá, ten nájde, a pobyt na takejto agrofarme je naozaj zážitok. Pozrite si Go Slow Italy, kde nájdete slow food agroturizmá v Taliansku.

Chianti – tajné zámky a božské červené víno

Nevieme ako vy, ale my príliš neholdujeme tlačeniciam na rozpálených rušných uliciach, nekonečným radom na vstup do múzeí, invázii čínskych turistov vyzbrojených obrími fotoaparátmi ani predraženej káve. Ospevovanú Florenciu, vstupnú bránu do toskánskeho regiónu Chianti, sme preto preleteli iba z rýchlika. Chvíľkovo sme ochkali nad impozantným chrámom Il Duomo a odfotili si antické sochy pred palácom Palazzio Vecchio, stratili sme sa v rozhľahlých manieristicko-barokových záhradách Giardino di Boboli pri paláci Pitti. Ochutnali sme vyhlásenú florentskú špecialitu panini lampredotto na hlavnom trhovisku Mercato Centrale, pozdravili sme rodný dom Dante Alighieriho a prešli sme sa po moste zlatníkov, Ponte Vecchio, známom zo strhujúceho filmu Parfém. A utekali sme z Florencie kade ľahšie, nech nám to Dante odpustí.

Väčšia pecka je zvyšná oblasť Chianti, teda okolie čo by kameňom dohodil od Florencie, ktorá sa od nepamäti považovala za útočisko florentských šľachticov a umelcov. Pravidelne sem, na svoje zámočky a usadlosti roztrúsené na zalesnených kopcoch utekali pred letnými horúčavami kamennej džungle. 

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Dnes sa tieto zámky a usadlosti zmenili na fattorie, centrá agroturizmu, luxusné hotely a farmy. K starobylým kláštorom, usadlostiam a zámočkom vedú typické dlhé toskánske príjazdové cesty lemované vysokými cyprusmi. A keď sa budete motať po miestnych kľukatých cestách (a je jedno či autom alebo na bicykli) nikdy neviete, na aký skvost naďabíte za najbližšou zákrutou alebo stromom. 

Tak napríklad na starodávnom zámku Castello di Gabbiano svojho času rád trávil leto autor slávnej sochy Davida – Michaelangelo Buonaroti a dnes v ňom môžete nielen bývať, ale aj degustovať víno. Zámok je totiž okrem štýlového hotela aj vychyteným vinárstvom, v produkcii slávneho vína Chianti Classico šliape na päty vinárskemu kolosu a toskánskej jednotke so 600-ročnou tradíciou – vinárstvu Antinori. A musíme uznať, že návšteva toskánskych pivníc spojená s degustáciou je naozajstným pôžitkom. Verte, že pokiaľ ste doposiaľ červenému vínu nevedeli prísť na chuť, po zasvätení do tajov jeho vzniku a ochutnávke toho najlepšieho z najlepšieho a zrejme sa tak ako my stanete jeho zanieteným milovníkom. Veruže sa vám to zíde, pretože práve v Toskánsku sa pestuje najznámejšia talianska odroda vínnej révy sangiovese a v karafách miestnych trattorií dokonca iné ako červené víno takmer ani nenájdete.

Montepulciano, Volterra a Montalcino – kulisy Twilightu a top miesta s atmosférou

Červeným vínom nie je povestná len oblasť Chianti, ale aj mestečko Montalcino, ktoré sa rozprestiera na pahorkoch južne od Sieny. Jeho okolie je také malebné, až sa nás zmocňuje pocit, že ho namaľoval nejaký šikovný renesančný maliar a jednoducho nemôže byť skutočné. Samotné mestečko (ktoré prelozíte krížom krážom za hodinku) nenavštevujú iba milovníci vína, ktorí vedia, že niektoré unikátne odrody červeného dostať len tu, ale aj hollywoodske celebrity. My sme tu pred pár rokmi takmer vrazili do hollywoodskeho fešáka Josha Hartnerra, ktorý sa túlal po jeho uličkách ruka v ruke s herečkou Amandou Seyfried. 

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Ak sa rozhodnete navštíviť Montalcino, odskočte si aj do neďalekého Montepulciana. Jeho neopakovateľnú stredovekú atmosféru podčiarkuje labyrint uličiek, ktorý sa vinie do strmého kopca. Spomínate si ešte na legendárnu scénu z kasového upírieho trháku Twilight, v ktorej sa Bella vrhla do fontány, aby zachránila svojho milovaného Edwarda pred Volturiovcami? Nakrúcala sa priamo tu, na námestí v Montepulciane. Filmovú fontánu sme však hľadali márne. Bola umelo vytvorená filmármi, tak ako aj lokalita.

Skutočné mesto Volterra, ktoré spisovateľku Stephenie Meyersovú pôvodne inšpirovalo pri písaní Twilightu, sa v skutočnosti nachádza asi 116 kilometrov od Montepulciana. Neprístupné, izolované no nabité neskutočnou energiou, dramaticky sa rozprestiera na alabastrových útesoch a na ich dne je pochované etruské mesto. Nečudo, že Stephanie Meyersovú Volterra uchvátila, pri potulkách jej uličkami smerom k ruinám rímskeho amfiteátru nás opantá pocit, že čochvíľa naďabíme na nejaké rozprávkové bytosti. Skôr by sme to však tipli na Harryho Pottera než na upírov :-). 

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Pienza – mesto ovčieho syra a farebných kvetín

Nenápadná Pienza v oblasti Val’D Orcia, na trase medzi Montepulcianom a Montalcinom sa považuje za rodisko slávneho ovčieho syra pecorino. V stredoveku sa vraj dovážal z Pienzy až do Ríma. A keďže každý druhý obchod v tomto neskutočne malebnom mini mestečku zapísanom na zoznam svetového dedičstva UNESCO, predáva práve delikatesy z ovčieho a iného syra všemožných tvarov, farieb a chutí (dokonca aj fakt zvláštne kombá, napríklad syr obalený v slame a podobne) status syrového mesta mu patrí právom. Hoci pozostáva len z hŕstky starobylých uličiek charakteristických farebnými kvetinami, rozhodne stojí aspoň za krátku zastávku. A určite si nezabudnite kúpiť syr!!! 🙂

San Galgano – katedrála bez strechy a toskánsky Excalibur

Na gotickú katedrálu z 12. storočia neďaleko Sieny sa pri potulkách romantickým Toskánskom neprávom zabúda. A pritom svojim charakterom a unikátnou atmosférou podľa nás s prehľadom predbehne aj turisticky známejšiu florentskú katedrálu Il Duomo. A dokonca sa považuje za prvý, resp. najstarší gotický chrám v Toskánsku. Ohromný priestor lemujú gotické stĺpy a namiesto klenby pozeráte rovno do neba. Mohutná ruina totiž nemá strechu a navyše ju obklopujú tajomné legendy. Viac dôvodov sme na jej návštevu fakt nepotrebovali. A skutočnosť je ešte úžasnejšia než fotky či opis z bedekra.

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Na neďalekom zarastenom kopci Siepi od katedrály- cabrioletu stojí malý kostol Rotonda di Montesiepi so zvláštnou kupolou, ktorá bola pravdepodobne postavená v 14. storočí na základoch už existujúceho kostola. 

V jej útrobách nájdete meč zarazený do skaly. Hovorí sa mu aj toskánsky Excalibur, teda legendárny meč kráľa Artuša. Nie je to údajne žiaden „fejk”, veď uvidíte sami. Môžete ísť až úplne k nemu, len sa kvôli svetlu veľmi zle fotí, lebo je samozrejme chránený. Na niektoré veci skrátka treba iba spomínať. 🙂 Podľa legendy meč patrí istému stredovekému rytierovi Galganovi Guidottimu, ktorý zriekol svojho zhýralého svetského života a žil ako pustovník. Zaujímavé je, že doteraz sa nikomu meč nepodarilo vytiahnuť. 

Vo vedľajšej miestnosti nenápadného kostolíka sa však ukrýva ďalšia čudná relikvia, o ktorej sa na internete takmer nič nedočítate. Minimálne nie na slovenských stránkach. A kebyže o nej neviete, tak ju možno prehliadnete —  ide o mumifikované ruky, ktoré údajne tiež pochádzajú z 12. storočia rovnako ako Galganov meč, čiže je predpoklad, že s ním tiež súvisia. Podľa legendy diabol poslal za San Galganom na vrch Siepi zabijaka prezlečeného za mnícha. Svorka divokých vlkov, ktorá obývala miestne lesy, sa však vrhla na útočníka a Galgana ochránila. Po útočníkovej smrti boli jeho ruky mumifikované a vystavené v kaplnke, kde ich uložené v akomsi priesvitnom akváriu a zakryté zamatovým závesom, môžete vidieť aj dnes. 

Náš tip: Opátstvo San Galgano je pokojné miesto, kde môžete v pohode „vypustiť” aj malého duracellka. Odporúčame však prísť zavčas rána, aby ste sa vyhli prípadným skupinkám turistov a mohli nerušene nasávať mystickú atmosféru (a tiež aby ste ich nemali na fotkách 🙂 Hneď oproti opátstvu sa inak nachádza agroturismo (reštaurácia).  A keď pôjdete od kaplnky Rotonda di Montesiepi dole cestou, natrafíte na kaviarničku, kde sa dá fajn oddýchnuť – a decká sa tiež potešia.

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San Gimighano – toskánsky Manhattan a najlepší zmrzlinár

Nielen Amerika, ale aj Toskánsko má svoj Manhattan. Presne takúto prezývku si totiž vyslúžilo stredoveké mestečko San Gimighano, pretože sú preň typické vysoké veže – stredoveké „mrakodrapy”. Nielen, že je samo o sebe jednoducho úžasné, ale na jeho hlavnom námestí Piazza della Cisterna má svoju zmrzlináreň srdečný postarší chlapík Sergio Dondoli, považovaný za najlepšieho výrobcu zmrzliny na svete. 

Je na to patrične hrdý, na stenách podniku visia všakovaké jeho certifikáty, ocenenia a fotky so známymi osobnosťami. Svojho času sem za zmrzlinou každoročne meral cestu napríklad britský expremiér Tony Blair či už nebohý ruský spisovateľ Alexander Solženicyn. Sergio si svoju šafranovú zmrzlinu dal dokonca patentovať! 

A musíme povedať, že tá zmrzlina je fakt úplne fantastická. Absolútnou topkou sú podľa nás okrem šafranovej tieto nami overené príchute: mangová, kokosová, príchuť sicílskych pistácií a príchuť vernaccio – čo je biele víno, typické pre San Gimighano.

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Keď som ešte len čakala malú nomádku a túlali sme sa po týchto končinách, presvedčila som tata nomáda, že jednoducho MUSÍME ísť do San Gimighana, ak už pre nič iné, tak kvôli tejto zmrzke. Čo vám poviem, tehotenské chute…:-) 

Náš tip: San Gimighano síce nie je veľké, ale stojí za to, aby ste mu venovali viac času než len ako krátku zastávku po ceste niekam inam. Historické centrum obklopené hrubými múrmi je celé pešia zóna, čiže autá sa tam bežne nedostanú (aj vy budete musieť parkovať na platených parkoviskách za hradbami, ktoré neraz bývajú totálne plné, bacha na to!). Takže tam môže váš malý ubehanec v pohode behať — problémom však môžu byť davy turistov, ktoré v určitých časoch dňa a v určitom ročnom období (v sezóne) neraz v úzkych uličkách vytvoria ľudskú rieku.

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Praktické info za všetky drobné

# Chystáte sa do Toskánska autom? Nezabudnite si pred prekročením hraníc Rakúska s Talianskom natankovať do plna. Odporúčame hraničné mestečko Villach. Ceny za benzín a naftu sa totiž v Taliansku šplhajú do závratných výšin. Lacnejší benzín sme objavili za Pisou a pri vjazde do Florencie.

# Pozor, keď zídete z diaľnice, Toskánsko vás prekvapí uzučkými kľukatými asfaltkami, kde sa na určitých úsekoch zmestí maximálne jedno auto a niekde dokonca nespevnenými štrkovými cestami. Za tie výhľady však rozhodne stojí zísť z diaľnice.

# Nezabúdajte, že Taliani si radi vychutnávajú „siestičku” a od cca 15:00 do cca 19:00 býva väčšina reštaurácií zatvorená, otvorené bývajú len bistrá s kávou a nejakými snackami (najčastejšie pečivom typu croissanty a pod). Čiže ak nedopatrením prešvihnete čas obeda (ako sa to často stávalo nám, keď sme sa zabudli pri nejakých pamiatkach), do večera máte smolu. A to býva s dieťaťom dosť prúser. Radšej si teda už ráno nabaľte ruksak pohotovostným jedlom pre prípad núdze. 

# Taliani zvyknú večerať dosť neskoro, čo môže byť pri malých deťoch problém. Ak snívate o tom, že si budete v Toskánsku na večeru užívať lukulské hody, pripravte sa na to, že realita môže byť úplne iná. Riešením je bývať v ubytovaní s kuchynkou (alebo tam, kde je aspoň chladnička a dvojplatnička) a večerať na izbe to, čo si nakúpite v supermarkete alebo na miestnom trhu či mäsiarni. Taká večera z lokálnych produktov ako sú olivy, syry, chlieb, šunka či zelenina však vôbec nemusí byť zlá. My sme si to dosť užívali 🙂 Alebo sme to ešte robili tak, že malej nomádke sme dali najesť na izbe, potom sme ju okúpali, prezliekli do pyžama a tak išli na večeru. Kým sme my večerali, ona spala v kočíku.

montepulciano-kostol-little-nomad-life


#
Toskánsko je známe tým, že sa tu dajú prenajať aj rôzne usadlosti a vily – to je tiež riešenie, treba sa len dopredu informovať ako je to so stravou a či vám vedia vyjsť v ústrety, keď máte malé dieťa. Pozor, v prechodnom období (keď už nie je leto, ale ešte nie je ani poriadna zima) býva na týchto usadlostiach celkom slušná zima, hlavne ráno. Slnečné lúče už neohrievajú kamenné múry s takou intenzitou a Taliani ešte nezapínajú kúrenie. Niekde vám síce dajú k dispozícii mini prenosný ohrievač, ale popravde, len to žerie elektrinu a nič to poriadne nevykúri. Preto na to myslite pri balení oblečenia a radšej si pribaľte hrubšie oblečenie na spanie (hlavne pre drobca), mne sa kvôli tomu raz podarilo nachladnúť. 

# Ak máte menšieho drobca, určite si so sebou zoberte aj ergonosič, lebo mnohé toskánske destinácie sa príliš nekamarátia s kočíkmi. Sú neraz stŕme, uličky uzučké a krivoľaké, veľa schodov, dlažba spôsobujúca kočíkom muky…Kočík odporúčame čo najnenápadnejší, ideálne skladateľný (my milujeme náš Mountain Buggy Nano, ktorý sa dá poskladať do veľkosti príručnej batožiny) alebo potom zámok, aby ste si ho mohli podľa potreby niekde zamknúť. Alebo si potom vyberte také destinácie, kde sa dá v pohode kočíkovať — napríklad mestá Pisa alebo Lucca. Lebo aj tá najväčšia eufória z nejakého miesta vás stopercentne prejde, keď budete do strmáku v totálnom teple tlačiť kočík a po chrbte sa vám budú valiť potoky potu.

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